Portoviejo holds a prestigious spot in history as one of the oldest Spanish-founded cities in present-day Ecuador. Founded on March 12, 1535, it wasn’t just a random settlement—it was a calculated move by the Spanish Empire to secure the coast.
Why was Portoviejo Founded?
The founding of San Gregorio de Portoviejo by Captain Francisco Pacheco was driven by three main goals:
- Strategic Control: The Spanish needed a base between the established cities of Panama and Piura (Peru) to protect their supply lines.
- Indigenous Pacification: The area was inhabited by the Mantas and Huancavilcas. The Spanish wanted to consolidate these populations into the “encomienda” system for labor.
- Provisioning: The fertile lands nearby were essential for providing food, wood, and water for the expeditions moving toward the Andes.
Why the Spanish Moved (and Kept Moving)
You might notice that Portoviejo is currently about 30 km inland. It didn’t start that way. The city’s history is a game of “musical chairs” for two main reasons:
- Pirate Attacks: In the 16th and 17th centuries, the coast was a playground for English and Dutch pirates (including the likes of Francis Drake). Moving the city further inland provided a “buffer zone” against sudden naval raids.
- Environmental Factors: The original coastal locations were often prone to flooding or lacked the stable agricultural land found in the valley.
The History of Ships: Charapotó and the Coast
The relationship between Portoviejo and the sea is deeply tied to Charapotó, which is often considered the “cradle” of the region’s maritime identity.
The Indigenous “Sea Lords”
Long before the Spanish arrived, the people of the Manteño-Huancavilca culture were world-class navigators.
- The Balsa Raft: They used massive balsa rafts equipped with cotton sails and “guaras” (centerboards) that allowed them to tack against the wind.
- Trade: They traded Spondylus shells as far north as Mexico and as far south as Chile.
Spanish Adaptation at Charapotó
When the Spanish arrived, they didn’t just bring their own ships; they were fascinated (and sometimes terrified) by the efficiency of the local rafts.
- Shipbuilding Hub: Charapotó and the surrounding inlets became essential for ship maintenance. The tropical hardwoods of Manabà were prized for their resistance to rot and shipworms.
- The Transition: As the Spanish moved the administrative center of Portoviejo inland, Charapotó remained a vital “Puerto Viejo” (Old Port) for a time, serving as the landing point for goods and people bound for the valley.
The early history of Portoviejo is a saga of survival. It wasn’t just a matter of building a town; it was a constant battle against the Pacific’s most notorious “sea dogs” and the shifting geography of the Manabà coast.
1. The Pirate Menace: Why Portoviejo Fled the Coast
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Spanish called the Pacific the “Mar del Sur” (South Sea). They initially thought it was their private lake, but English and Dutch privateers soon proved them wrong.
The coast of Manabà was a prime target because it sat right on the route for ships carrying silver from Peru and emeralds from the northern regions.
Key Raids that Changed History:
| Pirate / Corsair | Year | Impact on the Region |
| Francis Drake | 1579 | Captured the treasure ship Nuestra Señora de la Concepción nearby. His presence caused a regional panic that lasted decades. |
| Thomas Cavendish | 1587 | Burned several coastal settlements and captured Spanish pilots who knew the local waters, including the areas near Charapotó. |
| Richard Hawkins | 1594 | Engaged in naval battles along the coast, further proving that coastal towns were “sitting ducks.” |
| Joris van Spilbergen | 1615 | This Dutch commander’s presence was the final straw for many coastal administrative centers, pushing them to move further inland for safety. |
2. The Great Migration: From Beach to Valley
The Spanish eventually realized that being visible from the horizon was a death sentence. Portoviejo underwent a “relocation strategy” that defined its modern geography:
- The First Site (1535): Founded by Francisco Pacheco near the marshes of Charapotó. It was a maritime gateway but highly vulnerable.
- The Retreat: Due to the constant threat of being sacked and burned, the settlers began moving the administrative heart of the city further into the Portoviejo River Valley.
- The Result: By the late 1500s, the city was firmly established at its current inland site. The distance (about 30 km) was intentional—it gave the local militia enough time to organize a defense or hide valuables before a pirate landing party could reach the city gates.
3. Charapotó: The Gateway of the Conquest
Before Manta became the powerhouse it is today, Charapotó was the primary “Port of Portoviejo.”
- The “Lungs” of the Colony: It served as the entry point for Spanish explorers like Diego de Almagro and Pedro de Alvarado.
- Shipbuilding and Repairs: The area was famous for its high-quality timber. Spanish galleons often stopped there to replace masts or patch hulls with local resins.
- The Indigenous Factor: The Spanish didn’t just build ships; they “requisitioned” the knowledge of the local Manteño people. These indigenous groups had been building massive ocean-going vessels for centuries.
4. The Engineering of the Manteño Ships
The ships found in Charapotó and the surrounding coast were technical marvels that actually outperformed Spanish ships in certain coastal conditions.
“The Spanish were stunned to find rafts with sails that could carry up to 30 tons of cargo and navigate the treacherous surf zones where heavy European galleons would run aground.”
The “Guara” System:
The secret to these ships was the Guara (a system of centerboards). By raising or lowering wooden planks through slots in the raft, the Manteño sailors could:
- Tack against the wind: Something a standard flat raft could never do.
- Navigate shallow inlets: Perfect for the river mouths of ManabÃ.
- Stability: The balsa wood provided natural buoyancy that made them virtually unsinkable, unlike the heavy Spanish ships that were prone to capsizing in storms.
The Legacy of the “Cien Familias”
The founding families of Portoviejo (known as the Cien Familias) became a landed aristocracy. Because they moved inland, they shifted their focus from maritime trade to cattle ranching and agriculture, which is why Manabà is known today for its distinct “Montuvio” (coastal cowboy) culture rather than just its naval history.
Defending the City from Pirates
Defending the “Old Port” and the inland city of Portoviejo was a constant exercise in high-stakes hide-and-seek. Since the Spanish lacked a permanent naval fleet in the Pacific for much of the 16th and 17th centuries, they had to rely on early warning systems, natural barriers, and “scorched earth” tactics.
Here is how the region held its own against some of history’s most dangerous privateers.
1. The “Atalaya” (Lookout) System
The first line of defense wasn’t a wall, but a pair of eyes. The Spanish established a network of atalayas (watchtowers) on high coastal points, most notably on the hills of Montecristi and the cliffs near Manta.
- The Signal: When a suspicious sail was spotted on the horizon, lookouts would light massive bonfires.
- The Chain Reaction: The smoke (by day) or fire (by night) would be seen by the next lookout post, eventually reaching Portoviejo inland.
- The Result: By the time a pirate ship actually dropped anchor at Charapotó or Manta, the city was already buzzing with activity, and the “surprise” element—a pirate’s greatest weapon—was gone.
2. The “Great Retreat” (Passive Defense)
Portoviejo’s most effective defense was simply not being where the pirates thought they were. Because the city had moved roughly 30km inland, a pirate landing party faced a grueling march through dense, humid tropical dry forest and mangroves.
- The Trap: As pirates marched inland, they were vulnerable to heat exhaustion, tropical diseases, and ambushes.
- Empty Pockets: While the pirates were marching, the citizens of Portoviejo were busy hiding gold, church bells, and food supplies in the forest or burying them. Pirates often arrived at a “captured” city only to find empty streets and no treasure.
3. The Role of the “Tercios” and Indigenous Archers
The defense of Portoviejo relied on a “militia” system. Every Spanish settler (encomendero) was legally required to own a horse, armor, and weapons to defend the crown.
- The Cavalry: Because the terrain between Charapotó and Portoviejo was relatively flat in some sections, the Spanish used small, highly mobile cavalry units to harass pirate landing parties.
- Indigenous Allies: The Spanish frequently used Manteño and Huancavilca warriors as scouts and archers. These local fighters knew every hidden trail and could launch “hit and run” attacks from the brush, disappearing before the pirates could fire their heavy, slow-loading muskets.
4. The Famous Defense against Bartolomé Sharp (1680)
One of the most documented periods of tension involved the English buccaneer Bartolomé Sharp. After sacking other coastal towns, his fleet loomed off the coast of ManabÃ.
The Strategy: Instead of meeting Sharp in a sea battle (where they would lose), the Governor of Portoviejo ordered the total evacuation of the coast. They drove all the cattle inland so the pirates couldn’t find food.
When Sharp’s men landed, they found:
- No people to ransom.
- No silver to steal.
- No livestock to eat.
- Result: Frustrated and starving, the pirates were forced to retreat back to their ships. This “starve them out” tactic saved Portoviejo from the total destruction that befell cities like Guayaquil or Panama.
5. Defense through “Difficult” Geography
The Port of Charapotó actually served as a natural defense. The river mouths and estuaries were notoriously difficult to navigate for those who didn’t know the sandbars.
- Grounding the Enemy: Spanish pilots would often move or remove navigational markers.
- The Bottleneck: Pirates trying to bring small boats (longboats) up the river toward the city would find themselves in narrow channels where they could be rained upon with rocks and arrows from the high banks.
Summary of Defense Tactics
| Tactic | Goal | Effectiveness |
| Smoke Signals | Early Warning | High; gave hours of lead time. |
| Inland Relocation | Tactical Depth | High; made the city a “hard target.” |
| Cattle Driving | Resource Denial | Medium; prevented pirates from resupplying. |
| Guerrilla Ambushes | Attrition | Medium; discouraged pirates from staying long. |
The story of Portoviejo’s defense is really a story of the valley vs. the sea. The pirates owned the water, but the locals owned the land.